Gnocchi, even if
outside Italy are not as popular as other traditional dishes, are very common
all across Italy where all families like to eat once in a while their gnocchi, home-made in the best case - in fact they may also be bought fresh from specialty stores or packaged,
industrially produced, from supermarkets. Gnocchi, which are classified as primo piatto (first course) like pasta
and risotto, are soft little dumplings
that, in the most classic and common version, are made from boiled potatoes;
they probably originated during Roman times when potatoes were not available in
Europe (as they were introduced from Americas only in 16th century), so were
made from a semolina dough, probably very similar to the gnocchi alla romana that we find today, particularly in the Lazio
region.
Like for many traditional
Italian dishes, there are several versions of gnocchi and each family has its
own recipe, usually handed down from the nonne
to their daughters and granddaughters. And among the many possible variations are gnocchi
made from something else - or something more - than potato as main ingredient, like ricotta, flour,
spinach, pumpkin and so on. And gnocchi's versatility is beloved by chefs, in Italy and
abroad, who don't stop experimenting with textures and flavors, from saffron to
beets to anything in between. But whatever version of gnocchi you choose, to be
really delicious they have to be light, airy and delicate; in fact at their
worst they can be dense, chewy, or soggy or, even worst, they come apart in the
boiling water. So it is important to make gnocchi properly, that may be less
easy than it seems; but with some practice, probably a few failures, and
perseverance everybody can become a master at making gnocchi. For the pleasure
of all family members ...and of course great personal satisfaction.
The "secret"
for soft, light gnocchi is to use as little flour as possible; and this is
tricky because the exact amount needed depends on the characteristics of the
main ingredient, whether it is potato, pumpkin, or ricotta or a combination of
them: the firmer, dryer, denser it is, the less flour you'll need. Some
experience will help, together with few expedients including these: choose
potato/pumpkin/ricotta/sweet potato/... with a firm texture; bake or steam (not the ricotta
of course) instead of boiling to avoid they absorb much water; if necessary
sautée the puree for few minutes.
And another " trick"
which helps to reduce the amount of flour is to let the gnocchi rest (at least
30 min up to 4 hours) before boiling, so that all flour is well absorbed in the
dough and amalgamated with other ingredients.
Besides ingredients
used for making the dough, gnocchi versatility is also in the way they can be
served: for my taste, butter (better if noisette/brown butter) is perfect with all
types of gnocchi; potato gnocchi go well with simple tomato sauce and basil,
are lovely with pesto, with meat ragù and countless other sauces. And the same is for
the other versions of gnocchi; chefs like experimenting with dressings and condiments
and so I like to do at home.
The dish I want to
share today is a recipe featuring one of my favorite seasonal combination:
pumpkin and beetroot. I used pumpkin together with ricotta cheese as main
ingredients for soft, delicate gnocchi, while beets became the creamy sauce
with which I served them. In this case, in orders to apply the rule "use
and little flour as possible", I baked the pumpkin in the oven, squeezed
out all the remaining juices, puréed and then sautéed for few minutes in a
non-stick pan to eliminate any residual wetness. I weighted the flour and tried
to use that amount: less if possible, just a little more only if necessary to
keep the dough together. I let rest the shaped gnocchi for few hours, then boiled,
drained well and sautéed in butter until it browned. They would have been delicious
also on their own (maybe with some grated or shaved parmigiano), but I served on
a creamy sauce made blending roasted beets and caramelized onion and garnished
with toasted pistachios and orange zests.
Pumpkin ricotta gnocchi on beetroot sauce with
pistachios and orange
serves 2-3
For the gnocchi
1 small butternut
squash (or other pumpkin with firm flesh)
200 g ricotta cheese
70 - 100 g flour
50 g grated parmigiano
1 egg
1/2 tsp cinnamon
powder
1/2 tsp nutmeg powder
salt and freshly
ground pepper
For the sauce and garnishing
1 medium beetroot
1 medium onion, sliced
40 g shelled pistachio nuts
grated zest of 1/2 orange
extra virgin olive oil
40 g shelled pistachio nuts
grated zest of 1/2 orange
extra virgin olive oil
butter
salt and freshly
ground pepper
Preheat the oven to
200°C.
Trim the beetroots
stalks. Wash well the beetroot then wrap in aluminum foil, place on a baking
sheet and bake for about 1 hour or until tender when pierced with a skewer or a
sharp knife (baking time strongly depends on beetroot size and variety). Remove
from the oven and let cool completely.
Meanwhile prepare
gnocchi. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Wash the pumpkin, halve,
remove seed and cut into even slices (about 2 cm thick); place them on the
prepared sheet and bake until soft and
lightly browned on the edges. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.
Peel an mash the cooked pumpkin (you can use a potato ricer, a food mill or an
immersion blender). Heat a no-stick pan
and sautée the pumpkin pure for
few minutes until well dry (this step is important to let evaporate any liquid
from the cooked pumpkin). Let cool then
measure 200 g and place in a mixing bowl. Add the ricotta, drained from any
liquid, egg, grated parmigiano, salt, pepper and cinnamon and nutmeg (feel free to add more or less of the spices,
or omitting, depending on your liking). Mix
with a fork until amalgamated then start adding the flour, initially 50 - 60 g,
then one tablespoon at a time until the dough is firm but still sticky (the
less flour you add the more gnocchi will be tender and with a deeper
flavor). You should end with some
leftover flour to sprinkle over the gnocchi. Dust a tray with some of the remaining flour. Using
a teaspoon take portions of the dough, roll them into even balls and gently
place them on the prepared tray. Sprinkle more flour on top and let rest at
room temperature at least 2 - 3 hours before cooking (this will help the
gnocchi to become firmer).
In the meantime
prepare the sauce. Sautée the onion,
over a medium heat, in 3 tablespoons olive
oil and 1 water until soft and golden brown. Peel the cooked beetroot, chop
and place in a food processor with the cooked onion and its juices. Blend until
you have a smooth cream (you can also do it with an immersion mixer). If the
sauce is too thick add one tablespoon water or orange juice (from the peeled
orange). Transfer the sauce into a
saucepan, taste, adjust the seasoning and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325° F). Spread the pistachios out on a baking
tray and toast for about 8 minutes, until lightly colored. Remove from the
oven, allow to cool slightly and then chop roughly. Set aside.
Bring to boil a large saucepan filled with water, add salt, pour half of
the gnocchi into the boiling water using a large spatula and let cook until
they float to top of boiling water; drain with a spotted spoon and place on a
large plate. Cook also the remaining
gnocchi.
Warm up the sauce.
Meanwhile in a large pan heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat , add the
gnocchi in batches - do not overcrowd
the pan - and sautée, gently turning,
until they are lightly browned. Be careful not to burn the butter.
Spoon the sauce on warmed serving plates, creating a thick layer, gently
place on top gnocchi, add some freshly ground black pepper, garnish with
chopped pistachios and orange zests and serve immediately.
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